Browning HiPower Smooth (105d)
	Quantity in Basket: None Code: Brn_105d Price: $68.00 Shipping Weight: 0.20 pounds
	Select SOLID color ($10). Natural Ivory is no extra cost. For pearl effects, use PEARL option instead (Ivory = default) : Select a pearl color below... (otherwise, Ivory) Pure White Natural Ivory (Base Price) Aged Ivory Extra Aged Ivory Dark Yellow Yellow Military Tan Walnut Brown WW II 1911 brown Light Grey Dark Grey Ebony black Light Green Green "Zombie" green Olive Pale Blue Blue Royal Blue Violet Light Violet Maroon Magenta Light Pink Hot Pink Red Tangerene Orange Send ANY color in stock (save $$) Translucent/Pearl ($16 option). Do NOT select both SOLID and PEARL. (Pearl over-rides solid color choice) : None: Use solid color, above (default = Ivory) White Pearl Antique Pearl (aged/yellowed white pearl) Grey Pearl Gold Pearl Aztec Gold Tiger Stripe Gold Sparkle Gold Yellow Pearl Green Pearl Jade green (darker and less transparent than green pearl) Blue Pearl Flamingo Pearl Pink Pearl Red Pearl Russet Pearl Amethyst purple Violet Pearl Blue Opal Black Opal Australian (White) Opal Pink Opal Mexican (Red) Opal Amber Burl Light Amber Pearl Walnut Burl Cappuccino Pearl Bronze (metallic) Copper (metallic) Sparkle Copper Silver Pearl Antique Silver Sparkle Silver Send ANY color available now (Save $$) Add a medallion ($14/pr): None Texas Star, 1/2-in. Texas Star, 3/4-in. Small Open Star 1/2-in Large Open Star 3/4-in Bronze Star 5/8-in Silver Star, 5/8-in Gold Cross 1/2-in Indian Head Nickel 0.83-in Indian Head Nickel, 5/8-in Buffalo Nickel, 5/8-in Mini Buffalo Nickel 1/2-in Mercury Dime 1909 Indian Head Penny .69-in $2.5 Gold Coin US Marines 3/4-in red/gold US Marine Corp 3/4-in US Army 3/4-in US Army, Retired 5/8-in US Coast Guard 3/4-in US Coast Guard, Retired 5/8-in US Air Force 3/4-in US Navy 3/4-in Brass Anchor, 5/8-in Bronze Anchor 5/8-in Gold/Blue Anchor 5/8-in Masons 3/4-in Large Elk 3/4-in Small Elk 5/8-in Moose, 5/8-in Bear Claw 3/4-in Cougar Claw 3/4-in Lion Head 5/8-in 1860 brass eagle 5/8-in 1940 Brass Eagle 5/8-in Small Daisy 3/8-in Coat of Arms 5/8-in Royal Crest 5/8-in Silver Royal Shield 5/8-in brass Byzantine Crest, 5/8-in Salzburg 5/8-in Crossed Swords, 5/8-in Silver Dragon 5/8-in Copper Dragon 5/8-in Skull and Bones 5/8-in Skull and Bones 3/4-in Bronco Buster 5/8-in Crossed Pistols 5/8-in Silver Heart 1/2-in Rose, antique silver 3/4-in Silver Celtic Knot 5/8-in Copper Celtic Knot 5/8-in Route 66 1/2-in Ram's Head 5/8-in Are you sending a tracing?: YES! I want to assure proper size/shape. Tombstone is responsible for fit to tracing. Tracing will show hole pattern. ************************************** NO. I will be responsible if I choose the wrong size grip. I will measure my gun and compare to the listed specs. If I order a grip that is the wrong size or shape, I agree that it is NOT returnable. ***************************************************** I already mailed a tracing BEFORE I placed this order. Optional note: Select mounting method: Use screws which come with gun Send No.2 kit uninstalled ($3) Install No.2 kit ($3)
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At long last, and after many years of putting it off, I finally came up with a way for you to build a great multi-level back 1935 Browning grip! All my grips are formed in molds, with the back being the open top, so for years I only made flat-back grips. Some of them were easy to route or relieve with a Dremel or other rotary bit tool, and some also used a raised spacer which was easy to attach with a film of 5-minute epoxy glue, once you fitted the grip to the gun. But the Browning M35 and several similar guns use at least three levels on the back. Level 1 is the surface of the gun frame, which is also the surface of the grip back. Level 2 is the spacer which fills in the magazine well cutouts. It is easy to add by sanding a spacer to fit into the magazine well cutout, and epoxy gluing the spacer to the back of the grip. Level 3 is the wrap-around spacer which fits around the back area of the magazine well. It also is added by epoxy gluing it to the grip, and then sanding the junction smooth. This is a slightly advanced kit, because of the spacers and the small amount of routing at the top, but having put the grips on my own Brownings, I do not find them nearly as difficult to make or fit as I had imagined they would be. You can do it with nothing more than a fingernail sanding board, a little 5-minute epoxy glue, and perhaps a small amount of acetone or fingernail polish remover in case you get epoxy glue where it should not be (the grips are not harmed by this solvent, but epoxy glue dissolves and is wiped way easily with acetone dampened rags). But be sure that you understand, this is a kit which will require 20-30 minutes of gentle sanding and fitting, not a finished and ready to install grip. It's not difficult to do. It just requires slightly more fitting of the spacers since there are two spacers per panel, instead of one (as with the 1908, 1910, and similar small autos). Each grip normally uses a separate screw, which comes with the gun and is not provided with the grip kit. These screw into the gun, which has a hole through the frame with threads. However, it is possible to use a No.2 screw (with the ferrule and nut, press fit into the grips) provided your gun has a clear hole all the way through the frame. Because of the variation, copies, and so forth with this very popular design, you might have a gun where the grip screw hole is blocked. If you want to use the No.2 mounting kit, I can install it. But please make sure it will work with your particular gun: remove the grips and see if there is a clear hole all the way through the gun frame. If you wish to send a tracing with the screw hole indicated, that would be fine. But as with the true 1911 Colt grips, the size and shape are fairly standardized with the M35 Browning. It's likely to fit nearly any version that is a true copy of the original.

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