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Bersa pistols include the .380 Thunder (straight front grip frame edge) and the .380 CC (finger grooved grip frame
edge). Be SURE to order the grip that matches your gun: look at the front edge of your pistol grip and see if it has
scallops or if it is smooth. Look at the grip you are considering, and see if it matches that shape. If not, do not order
that one!
Bersa also has extended and Pro models that use other grips. If you don't see the grip listed, I don't have
a mold for it yet. I can't "change" one of the others so it becomes bigger or has a different shape: they are made in
molds. Just order grips that actually say they are for your model of gun, and look like they would fit your gun. Bersa
model names are very close to each other, but a slight change in the name usually means a different grip is needed.
Important: The mechanism of the Bersa 380 series has the sear and trigger bar and other parts exposed on the right top of the pistol, just under the grip. The grip must be relieved so it clears these parts, and so that
the parts cycle back under spring pressure with the grip secured. The grips are not necessarily "ready to use" as they are
kits, which need to be fitted to your gun. Be sure to carefully cycle the slide and test the trigger and safety with the new grips
snugly installed, before loading the gun! The mechanism can "hang up" on the inside of improperly relieved grips and fail to
fire, or to reset the trigger, if you don't relive enough of the material. This is very important: not difficult, just don't
ignore it.
The original design does not provide a solid spacer to adsorb recoil, as with the earlier Browning 1910/1955 and Colt 1903 designs. A common complaint about the guns is that the grip screws tend to work loose with most of the 380 pistols as delivered by the factory. However, I send two spacers with these grips, which you can epoxy glue to the grip backside once the grips are fitted. These prevent the grip from moving under recoil and take the force off the pins that can wallow out their matching holes. You don't have to install them but
they are highly recommended. Epoxy glue alone is sufficient if you mix and apply to cleaned back surfaces but I also send four small, short screws which you can thread into small holes in the back of the grips. The heads of these screws fit into
large holes in the spacers, so that the recoil is further resisted by the screws. This helps the epoxy glue maintain a solid
hold even with repeated firings. The screws don't actually hold the spacers onto the grips: they provide a post (the head
area) against which the spacer is supported from sideways movement. One spacer fits into the cut-out area on each side of
the grip frame. The smaller one is flat along one edge to clear the magazine safety bar. You can see which side it fits
very easily.
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