Terms of Sale
Tombstone Gun Grip kits are offered as semi-finished grip kits, in order to offer thousands of combinations of colors, effects and medallions, to fit unusual or discontinued guns at a modest price, using strong polyurethane epoxy resin.
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The grip kit you receive will be the one you order, as shown in the listing picture, but with the color, effects and medallion options you choose from the drop-down menues.
- Examine the picture, description and dimensions carefully BEFORE you order!
- Compare to your gun.
- If it obviously is different, don't order that one! It won't magically change when you get it.
- WYSIWYG means What You See Is What You Get (other than color, medallions, etc.)
- If you order checkered, you get checkered. If you want a smooth grip, find a listing for a smooth grip.
- If I don't show the style you want, I don't have it yet.
- Each grip comes from a mold. It can't be changed to checkered, smooth, different shape, etc.
- I do not checker the grips to custom order. If they are shown as checkered, they are.
- If a grip is shown as smooth, that's what you will receive if you order it.
- Grips are flat backed and may need some work for clearances or alignment pin hole.
- These are 90% finished kits, so you may want to do some polishing, sanding.
- Instructions are provided both on the website and in print, with each grip sent.
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The grip kit will match or be slightly larger than the template or tracing you send, to allow you to sand the grip panels to a proper fit for your gun. If you send a tracing or template, I will send a grip that matches or covers the outline. I don't fit the kit to your gun. You do that because you have the gun and can do it properly.
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You may need to do some routing or drill a pin alignment hole in the back of the grip to exactly match your gun, depending on the model. I install the press-fit nut and ferrule by default, if the grip comes with one, unless you check the box to tell me not to. You do not need to order the standard mounting screw separately for grips that require a single screw through both panels. If a grip uses screws that thread into the frame of the gun, rather than passing through and matching a press-fit nut in the other grip, you will need to use the screws that came with your gun (or buy new ones from Brownells or Numrich, etc. if they have been lost). I only have the screw mount kits you see listed under the hardware category.
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The back of the grip panel is FLAT as shipped. Raised areas are usually supplied as spacers that you fit and glue to the back of the grip with epoxy glue. Cavities or clearance grooves are cut using a Dremel or other rotary tool, if needed. I provide spacers for grips that need them, such as the spacer that joins two panels to create a 1-piece single action grip. The 1-piece grip can only be used on guns which have a removable back strap (not, for instance, Ruger single actions with solid grip frames). Most Colt Single Actions and clones thereof have a removable back strap. Solid grip frame guns do not.
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Medallions:
If you order medallions installed on the grips, the medallions will be located where experience indicates most people would prefer them, and/or where they will fit best, unless you give specific detailed instructions as to the location, orientation, depth, etc. Any parameter that is not provided by you will be left to my discretion. I mention this because, in dealing with thousands of people, perhaps a fraction of a percent of them will complain about medallion location, depth, or orientation. I'm glad to do it any way you want, if you tell me precisely what you want BEFORE the medallions are installed. You do NOT have to specify location, orientation or depth but if you don't, then whatever I decide looks best on a particular grip with a particular medallion will be deemed acceptable. I'll do whatever you make clear is your desire. But not after I've already sent them. If you send a drawing and tell me specifically you want the medallion centered on a point indicated on that drawing, then I will do it. Otherwise, I'll do what I would want if it were my gun. (What other option is there?) Bottom line: if you don't tell me otherwise, whatever I send is right when it comes to medallion location, and is not a warranty reason to return the grips.
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If you order a specific grip but send a tracing or note that would require a completely different grip, the order cannot be started until I know what you actually want. I will contact you about it by e-mail.
I must rely upon you to READ and UNDERSTAND what you are purchasing. If you don't understand, ask me by e-mail. If you don't agree, don't order. I can't do it a diferent way and get all this work done in a reasonable time for a reasonable price.
- The Last 10% of the fitting is left for you, since without the gun in hand, there isn't a good way to do that...and YOU have the gun in hand!
You can greatly reduce the amount of work for yourself by making sure you send a pencil tracing around existing grips which fit your gun reasonably well. The tracing will be at least a pencil line wider than the grips, which helps assure that your new grip kit will be large enough for proper fitting. If you indicate the mounting screw hole or holes, this also helps eliminate unpleasant surprises. Some autoloaders, for instance, have different spacing between holes depending on the era of manufacture or on some slight modification to the tooling. Your tracing with screw holes accurately identified will eliminate getting a different spacing or location.
- If you only have the gun, and no grips for it, then a TEMPLACE can be sent instead of a tracing. A template is a stiff paper (such as index card) cut-out made to fit on the gun just as you would wish the grips to fit. This template can be held against the back of the new grip and it should be the same size or slightly smaller, so you have a little room for fitting the new grip. The new grip cannot be smaller, but it can certainly be slightly larger. Any alignment holes should be made by you after the grip is fitted, since the alignment hole is critical and must not be done without the gun for test fitting.
- I can't tell you if I have a grip that will fit your particular model of 1858 Remington or your grandfather's old war trophy that has Mauser stamped on the slide. I can't even tell for sure if my grip for a Uberti 1875 New Army will fit YOUR particular copy of the same Uberti, because even the same make and model will vary from one to another just a little. But YOU can tell: compare measurements, find the closest larger grip, and send me a template or tracing!
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Do NOT fax or send a photocopy of the grip laid out on the copy machine glass -- it probably will not reproduce to the exact size. When people fax me a grip outline, I fax it right back to them and ask if it still fits their gun. It never does. Faxes distort images and usually shrink them. E-mailed pictures are nice for identification but not for precise fitting. Only the original paper and pencil tracing, sent by physical mail, will work. If that's too much trouble for you to do, imagine how much more trouble it will be to send back the grip that doesn't fit along with a tracing and additional postage cost both ways! Usually, a 1911 grip or a grip for one specific kind of auto-loading pistol with a single mounting hole will fit without sending a tracing. But grips with two holes can vary in hole spacing on the same model (manufacturing tolerances and variations in jigs and fixures over long periods of manufacture cause this). If you mark the holes on your tracing, it solves the problem.
- The thickness of the grips is adjustable, by you, simply by securing a piece of sandpaper on a flat board and rubbing the grip back against it. Grips may be adjusted so that one is thicker, which is sometimes highly desirable to fill the palm and allow the fingertips to more easily grasp the other side. The finish of the grips can be left with a faint matte effect or polished to a high sheen, as you wish. This is done as part of the final 10% of the work, because any fitting and sanding would require a follow-up polishing, making it a waste of time to do that before sending them. Most people find them satisfactory as received but the material will take a high luster with buffing compound if that is desired.
- Instructions are available on the main page of this website, by clicking the appropriate button, and printed instructions are sent with the grips, explaining how to fit and finish them. It is assumed that you will have read the "PLEASE READ BEFORE ORDERING" section on the main menu BEFORE you buy any product here, so you KNOW what to expect and will NOT order, for instance, a grip listed as a "COLT 1851 NAVY, SMOOTH", with a note that says "Make this fit my Uberti New Army 1875, with checkering like the Uberti Regulator".
- The grip you see is the grip you get, as far as size, shape, and surface type.
A grip listed as smooth will be smooth when you get it, not checkered. A grip listed as checkered will be checkered, even if you order it in pearl (against recommendations for checkered grips, as you cannot see the figure in pearl with checkering over it). Each grip comes from a mold. It is the shape, size, and finish of the mold. It has a number that corresponds to that mold, and when you order, that is what you are ordering. It is up to YOU to determine (a) if the dimensions listed would fit your gun, or (b) if you will send a tracing or template to match.
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If you do NOT send a template or tracing, you agree to be responsible for comparing dimensions. If the grip does not fit your gun and it is as described in the listing, you can still exchange the grip for another one but you must take care of the shipping costs ($8) for sending the new grip to you, and you must send a template or tracing this time, to get it right.
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If you DO send a template or tracing, then Tombstone Gun Grips will be responsible for fitting the grip to your tracing or template. (Please note that by "sending", it is meant that you would MAIL the physical original tracing or template, not send an electronic copy by email or fax, or a photocopy or photograph. Those are interesting but don't give true size to close enough tolerance.)
If you send a tracing or template, there are four possible outcomes:
- The grip will match your template or tracing and thus can be sanded to fit your gun if the template or tracing was made properly.
This is what we both want to happen. It does, about 99% of the time, for folks who send tracings or templates.
- The grip will match your template or tracing but NOT be large enough for fitting to your gun because the tracing isn't the proper size.
You are welcome to send a corrected template or tracing, return the original grip with $8 return shipping, within 7 days. Tombstone will make a new grip to match your corrected information.
- The template or tracing will not match the grip you ordered, but might match some other grip listed.
Tombstone will contact you and see if you want the other grip instead. It may or may not have the same surface detail (checkering,
staghorn, smooth) as the one you ordered.) It might also be possible to create a new mold by borrowing your original grips. Or it
might be possible to create a new grip by using one of the "universal" blanks. With a template or tracing, many possibilities open up that are not available otherwise. Final choice is always yours. If no other grip appeals to you, there is no charge, of course. If you prepaid (such as by PayPal) and do not wish to choose another grip that fits, a refund will be made asap.
- The template will not match the grip when you get it and won't fit your gun.
The technical term for this would be a "total screw-up" and our problem to resolve. If you send back the grips along with another tracing or template, and make sure to indicate where the grip is too small or if the holes are not right, where they ought to be, Tombstone will make a new set to the new template and pay shipping back to you if you'll just tell us within 30 days. Or Tombstone will give you a refund at your option if you return the grips within 7 days after receipt.
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